Peru: 2 and 3 week itineraries in the a culturally rich utopia

Peru has one of the richest histories we have ever seen during our travels! The culture is so distinctive, there was tonnes of amazing nature, and there are alpacas EVERYWHERE. It's a crazy alpaca lady's heaven. One thing to note though is that there seemed to be a LOT of early mornings for various trips in Peru, so an early morning coffee is about to become your best friend!

Inca Trail and Salkantay Trek

Please note that our itinerary follows what we did, however you could also add in a hike such as the Inca Trail or Salkantay trek, which leave from Cusco and arrive at Machu Picchu. We skipped these as doing these hikes guided can be pretty pricey; most of the tours we saw were >$1,000 per person and the best companies cannot be booked last minute (which was a struggle for us scatty travellers!); but we did hear many great things from friends we made here in respect of these hikes. These trips typically need to be booked pretty far in advance (approximately 6 months) - anything less and you're risking having to pay a lot more to be able to do them. If you want to head over to Machu Picchu, which is a must, make sure you book your tickets at least 3 months in advance - more on that later!

We have proposed a 2 and a half week itinerary below. If you don't have time to do the full itinerary as below, and need a 2 week itinerary only, I would recommend skipping Puno (Lake Titicaca) and heading straight to Arequipa from Cusco (but you'll have to fly via Lima).

Summary of our itinerary:

Day 1 - Land in Lima, fly straight to Cusco

Day 2 - Explore Cusco, walking tour, acclimatisation day

Day 3 - From Cusco - Sacred Valley & Maras Salt Mines Tour

Day 4 - From Cusco - Lake Humantay

Day 5 - From Cusco - Semi-rest day, with more exploring of Cusco

Day 6 - From Cusco - Rainbow Mountain

Day 7 - Travel to Aguas Caliente

Day 8 - Machu Picchu

Day 9 - Travel back to Cusco

Day 10 - Travel to Puno

Day 11 - Day on Lake Titicaca

Day 12 - Travel to Arequipa

Day 13 - Explore Arequipa

Day 14 - Explore Arequipa

Day 15 - Day trip to Colca Canyon from Arequipa

Day 16 - Fly to Lima

Day 17 - Day trip to Paracas and Huacachina Oasis from Lima

Day 18 - Leave Peru from Lima

Day 1 - Arrive into Lima and catch a flight straight to Cusco

Most international flights will arrive into Lima, but we would not recommend spending much (if any) time in Lima. We have visited the city but there really isn't that much to do here. It's a little dangerous versus the rest of Peru, and relative to the rest of this amazing country, the culture and history doesn't feel quite so rich. Instead, head straight to Cusco. Cusco is an absolutely stunning place, with loads on offer both in the town but also in terms of day trips. The town itself is Peru's answer to a quaint hiking town, and it does not disappoint. There are 3 days of day trips and a couple of days of exploring that you can do here. If we needed to get around Cusco via car, we used Uber which is very affordable here.

Where to stay in Cusco:

You ideally want to be within walking distance of the main plaza, "Plaza Mayor", which is located in the historical centre. Anywhere within a 10 minute walk of the main plaza is a good location, and Cusco is very safe. We stayed in two different places during our time in Cusco and would recommend them both.

• Tucan Hostel - huge room, lovely shower and also good kitchen facilities if you want to save money from the expensive Cusco restaurants! Breakfast was not included but La Mula Cafe is next door (mentioned below) [circa £30/room/night]

• Montecristo Hotel - had large rooms, coca tea to help with the acclimatisation, huge rooms, hot showers, a buffet breakfast and the BEST location [circa £30/room/night]

Acclimatisation in Cusco:

Cusco sits at a whopping 3,399m above sea level, which WELL is into the altitude sickness range (>2500m), so it is super important to take it slowly when you first arrive in Cusco. Everyone's experience is different - we are pretty active, and we had some shortness of breath and we struggled to sleep the first few nights, but some of our friends had virtually no problems. You can buy altitude sickness tablets in Cusco or beforehand, but we found the side effects from these worse than not taking at all as it gave us weird tingling in our hands (this is not medical advice!). I would make sure you give yourself at least 2 days to acclimatise before attempting the Rainbow Mountain or Lake Humantay hikes as these are a little more challenging, giving your body the best chance to adjust to the altitude (again not medical advice, just our experience).

Where to eat in Cusco

• JC's Cafe Cusco - this was full of locals (and much better price than some places in Cusco!) which is always a sign for a fantastic meal! We had the pork sandwich from here twice during our visit, as recommended to us by one of our tour guides. No regrets!

• La Mula Cafe - the most delicious coffee and pastries were had here (they also do food but we only discovered on our last day so didn't get time!). The founder works there, and works with his dad locally to grow coffee - so you're supporting an authentic, locally-ran and owned business.

• Inkagrill - delicious grilled dishes on a very broad menu.

• Limbus Restobar - views, views and more views. At night, you'll see the lights of Cusco. We highly recommend the Lomo Saltado (Peru's national beef dish) here.

• Piedra & Sal Restaurante: A reasonable option that offers many of Peru's favourite dishes, such as lomo saltado!

Day 2 - Explore Cusco

On your first day in Cusco, I would recommend having a walk around the historic centre and the Plaza Mayor. It is such a beautiful place, and there are plenty of alpaca clothing shops to mooch around, as well as lovely restaurants and cafes. I would recommend grabbing an free walking tour in the afternoon (tips are expected, though) - we did this one which was great to get a feel for the place and learn some cool facts about Cusco and Peru more generally. You will notice the rainbow flags in Cusco everywhere. Fun fact - this is actually the flag of Cusco and not the LGBTQ+ flag as we first thought!

Why not grab a picture with a local indigenous person walking around with a lamb or alpaca? Make sure you agree the price before hand though, as they can be pushy and demand more money! The little lambs are very cute.

Day 3 - Sacred Valley & Maras Salt Mines Tour

A trip into the Sacred Valley is an absolute must when is Cusco! This amazing place offers access to amazing scenery, salt mines with a unique heritage and phenomenal agricultural terraves used by the Inca/Quechua people. We did this tour, and it was AMAZING [affiliate link]. This tour covers:

1) Chinchero District: Beautiful scenery and view of the Incan agricultural terraces. We also stopped at a local workshop where we learnt about the process of making the various traditional products, such as alpaca wool scarves and traditional dyes. We may have bought a couple of alpaca scarves for the British winters!

2) Moray: A short walk around the agricultural terraces, which is truly fascinating to learn about in terms of history and how the Quechua people used to feed their population.

3) Maras Salt Mines: This was my favourite stop on the trip. You can visit the shop where you get to try various snacks made with the local salts - delicious! You will also visit the salt mines themselves, and it is super interesting to learn about how these mines play an important part in the local economy.

4) Urubamba: Lunch stop for a delicious buffet lunch. Yum.

5) Ollantaytambo: Ollantaytambo ruins, which includes a massive Inca fortress with large stone terraces on a hillside - this place does not disappoint. This is a former living place of the Incas and a key stop on the Inca trekking to Machu Picchu. Keep an eye out for the viral "Inca Bucks" aka Starbucks.

6) Pisac: Inca ruins surrounded by incredible scenery and agricultural terraces.

We definitely felt as though we had enough time in each place on this trip, which was something I was worried about before hand.

Day 4 - Lake Humantay

For people doing the Salkantay Trek, this is day 1 of the trek! An absolute must do and hopefully by day 3 you are feeling up to a bit of hiking at altitude. The hike itself is about 90 minutes one way in total, but if you aren't feeling up for it, you can grab a horse for a fee (from memory this was about £10/$12) most of the way up. The hike is all up hill, with of well-defined path for walking, some rock walking and partly along a beautiful river. It is difficult mostly due to the altitude, but we found it totally doable with reasonable fitness levels - and it was so worth it!

One annoying thing about this trip is that all of the trips leave Cusco at 3-4am, which is very painful. We searched far and wide for a trip leaving later but could not find one. If you do, let us know! Take a neck pillow if you have one, as you will get the chance to grab an extra 2 hours sleep on the coach if you do!

That said, it was definitely worth it when we got to see the amazing view of the lake. A walking stick is included with the tour which was handy when the legs get a little more tired. You get breakfast and lunch included and by the time we got back to Cusco (5pm) we went straight to bed as we were so tired! Don't miss this trip, I mean just look at these pictures... [FYI: We booked this trip! [affiliate link]]

Day 5 - Rest day / explore Cusco

Due to the early morning the day before, I recommend taking a semi-rest day and exploring Cusco itself before your trip to Rainbow Mountain tomorrow. There is loads that Cusco has to offer, here are some of the things that we did on our day off of day trips:

1) Chocolate Museum: If you walk in, the workers will give you a free tasting tour where you get to try lots of different chocolate, as well as some cocoa tea. The tour probably lasts 20-30 mins in total. Afterwards, grab a chocolate cake and cocoa tea in the café - they are to DIE for!

2) Inka Museum: Interesting artefacts and reasonable entrance fee - if you like your history, this place is for you.

3) San Cristobal Church/Plaza: Although you have to walk up quite a few steps to reach here, the views over Cusco are absolutely stunning. This is a must do!

4) Walk around San Blas neighbourhood in Cusco: It is beautiful; with cobbled roads, cute art shops and cafes, and lovely views over the city. Go to "Calle 7 Borreguitos" which one of the most "instagrammable" spots in Cusco. Make sure you have a look at the Sapantiana Aqueduct. Try a Pisco sour (Peru's famous drink) with a view in "Limbus Restobar".

5) Saqsaywaman - Inca ruins: Pronounced "sexy woman" (lol), these Inca ruins are some of the biggest stones you will see in an inca fortress in Peru.

Day 6 - Rainbow Mountain

Rainbow Mountain is an absolute must do (let's face it, most things in Peru are - but this place really is special). We ran into the same problem with trip times leaving at 3/4am, but managed to find a trip that left later, at 8am - linked here [affiliate link]. Although this was a little bit more expensive, I honestly recommend spending the money, for so many reasons. Firstly, you’re not as tired to walk as getting up at a more ‘normal’ time and can enjoy it more! Second, the mountain is much quieter as by the time you get there, everybody else is on their way back down, you might even get it to yourself!

Some of the pictures you see online of rainbow mountain are a bit overly-edited, but it is still absolutely stunning and so worth a visit. The hike itself was about 90 minutes; while this is not physically demanding and I did not find this too hard, you are up at circa 5000m altitude so you just have to take it slow. Although at an even higher altitude than Cusco, after 5 days you should hopefully feel more acclimatised. You can grab the infamous instagram picture at the top with the alpacas with sunglasses on! But make sure you climb to the VERY top after, as the views of the other side are worth it.

Note - If you aren't feeling up to walking, you can rent a horse, but you still need to climb the last bit which is uphill. The horse part of the walk was on the mostly "flat" bit so would not be worth it in my opinion.

On the way back to Cusco, we stopped for a delicious lunch in a really nice restaurant, surrounded by amazing scenery. This was one of the best meals I had in Peru and was included as part of the trip (with 3 courses!)

Day 7 - Travel to Aguas Calientes for Machu Picchu

There are a couple of different options to get to Aguas Caliente. The main two train companies are Peru Rail and Inca Rail, both of which have offices in the main plaza of Cusco. We booked our train when we booked our Machu Picchu tickets, but it is not totally necessary to book so far in advance. Please note that even if you book online, you need to go into the store in Cusco to validate your ticket.

We opted for the Peru Rail bi-modal service. This meant that we got a coach to Ollantaytambo, where we swapped onto the train. I was really surprised with how efficiently everything ran and how professional it was - it definitely puts UK train services to shame! The train ride itself is an experience - prepare to be blown away by the views! Our transportation cost around $100 each for a return ticket.

When you arrive in Aguas Calientes, check into your hotel and grab some food.

Bus tickets:

You also need to sort your bus tickets for tomorrows trip to Machu Picchu. Head over to Consettur Bus Ticket in the centre to buy your ticket. Don't forget to take your passport as you cannot buy a bus ticket without it. Don't worry, you can pay for this by card. We had 6am tickets for Machu Picchu which meant we got the 5:30am bus. However, you can't just rock up at 5:30 - queues start an hour before, so we got there at 4:30am (ouch). I promise it is so worth it!

What to do if you have not got Machu Picchu tickets

So when we arrived, we had got tickets for circuit 1b and 3d, which we initially (more on this later) felt disappointed as we had heard that circuit 2 is the best circuit, and we wanted to be able to view the upper terraces. So, we were hoping to be able to get tickets for the next day - and that we did! Head over to Sito Archeologico di Machu Picchu in the centre (here on Google Maps) and let them know you want to buy Machu Picchu tickets (again you will need to bring your passport). They will give you a ticket with a number on and tell you to come back at a certain time. We only went at 3pm and got told to come back at 6pm, and managed to get the tickets we wanted, but of course the earlier you go the higher chance you have of getting this.

Where to stay in Aguas Calientes:

Aguas Calientes is a really small place, so super easy to walk around It is full of tourists there for Machu Picchu too and felt perfectly safe!

• Sayacmarca Classic Inn - lovely hotel right next to the bus stop with a buffet breakfast [c. £40/room/night]

• Pisonay Mapi Hotel Boutique - more luxuirous option, well-located [c£55/room/night]

Where to eat in Aguas Calientes:

We didn't find there to be many amazing food choices here, but we did have a few good meals that filled hungry bellies after a long day of walking around Machu Picchu:

• Pueblo Viejo Machupicchu Restaurant: A huge mix of food and a super cosy environment.

• Ponchos Food & Wines: Delicious, and as the name suggests - try some wine here!

• Chullos Restaurant & Craft Beer: I had one of the nicest Pizzas here that I have had in my life!

• Mesa 7 Restaurante: A good budget option. I really enjoyed having a classic pesto pasta here when we wanted something familiar!

Other things to do here:

Obviously you are here for Machu Picchu, but there are a couple of other things to do here if you have time.

• There is a huge market next to the bridge to cross the river; browse here for souvenirs!

• "Aguas Calientes" = hot water in Spanish. That's right - Aguas Calientes is also famous for its hot springs! Just make sure you take plenty of mosquito spray, the bugs here are next level.

Day 8 - Machu Picchu

The day you have been waiting for - it's time for Machu Picchu! Honestly this was one of my best days in 7 months of travelling, and no video or pictures will ever do this place justice. WARNING: The mosquitos here are the worst I have EVER seen in any location EVER. I kept my body covered up the whole day and didn't put mosquito spray on my hands for the first 2 hours (as who puts mosquito spray on their hands) and I got 20 bites across them! Take all the precautious you can.

You cannot switch routes or turn back within Machu Picchu, so make sure (1) you know where you are going, as a wrong turn could mean game over and (2) they have clamped down on switching routes, so if you have the wrong ticket, sorry but you'll have to stick to the circuit you have been allocated.

Food and drink at Machu Picchu

There are two food and drink options here at the main gate. You can do an unlimited buffet lunch at the restaurant here (Restaurante Tinkuy), or you can grab sandwiches and snacks at the Snack Bar. We grabbed two slices of cheesecake which isn't the most nutritious lunch, but it was lovely and a snack after a big breakfast. There are no toilets or food options once you enter the site, so make sure you take some food and water with you if you are doing the longer hikes or indeed you think you will be a while inside the site.

How long does it take to get around Machu Picchu?

We found Route 1b to take around 2 hours, Route 2a to be around 2 hours, Route 3c to take around 3 hours and Route 3d to take about 1-1.5 hours.

Which route should I do at Machu Picchu?

We did a TikTok on this subject which you can find here.

As of September 2024, we recommend the following:

• If you want to do everything on one ticket: Route 2a Classic Circuit is the best all-rounder ticket.

• If you want to spend a bit longer and enjoy exploring: Route 1b tickets offer the best views of any ticket, and route 3d/c if you enjoy hiking and exploring.

• For the best view: Route 1b Panoramic. No competition.

• If you like heading off the beaten path: Route 3c offers a VERY quiet hiking path but no direct views of the main citadel. Route 3d offers an alternative view of Machu Picchu from a little spot called Huchuy Picchu (which means "small peak").

Routes summary

• Route 1a - Machu Picchu Mountain: This starts from the upper terrace area, and it allows you to climb Machu Picchu mountain which is one of the highest points in the entire site. This trek takes about 4 hours round trip and does need reasonable fitness levels.

• Route 1b - Panoramic Circuit - Upper Terrace Route: This was our favourite route and allows you to to get the best picture of Machu Picchu, as well as panoramic views of scenery surrounding the citadel. It is quieter than route 2. However, it does not allow you to go into the structure, so it is worth booking a route 2 or 3 ticket as well. No real fitness levels are required.

Route 1b view from the terrace

• Route 1c - Intipunku: This also starts from the upper terrace, and leads you to the Sun Gate (Intipunku). It's a stunning view and worth doing at sunrise for that extra glow.

• Route 1d - Puente Inka route: Again starting from the upper terrace, this is a much shorter walk so requires less fitness/walking.

• Route 2a - Classic designed route: This is the best all-rounder, no questions asked. You get good views over the citadel, and you'll also be able to walk through the citadel itself to see the ruins up close. It could be worth doing this route with a tour guide for additional information - we did, and we loved it as it'll help you understand what you're looking at. Tour guides wait by the main entance and typically cost £30/$35 for a private tour.

• Route 2b - Lower terrace route: This route starts from the lower terrace and allows you to explore the urban area. It's similar to route 2a in that you’ll get a reasonably good shot of the citadel but from a slightly different angle. You can also pass through the main square and the Sacred Rock.

• Route 3a - Wayna Picchu: If you're adventurous, do this route! We didn't get to, which we were gutted about. But it looks like an incredible climb, and it offers unparalleled views over the citadel. Starting from the lower part of Machu Picchu, you get to visit the Temple of the Sun, the Fountain Sector, Inca Palace, and more. You will also get to climb Wayna Picchu - this involves steep, narrow stairs and offers amazing views. It’s not for the faint-hearted, so if you're not a keen hiker or struggle for fitness, maybe give this route a miss.

• Route 3b - Designed royalty route: Similar to 3a, but you do not get to climb Wayna Picchu. This therefore has much lesser physical requirements.

• Route 3c - Great Cavern route: We tried this route and WOW, there are some steep drops here. You get to walk through the citadel and ruins, and walk to the Great Cavern. It's about a 2-3 hour round trip, and you should be very careful as the path is dangerous. It's for the more experienced hiker for sure.

• Route 3d - Huchuy Picchu route: We also did this route. You also get to go through the citadel and ruins, and then climb Huchuy Picchu. Huchuy Picchu is the small peak behind the citadel, offering great alternative views of the citadel. It's a short walk that is not too demanding, but it is reasonably quiet relative to the main terraces which is great.

View of the citadel from Huchuy Picchu

Our experience

We started on Route 1b and purchased the 6am ticket slot so that we got to see the sun rise, which was truly beautiful. With this ticket, you also have access to the Sun Gate. I recommend doing this part of the walk first, as with the one way system you cannot go back to it once you pass the turn off. The Sun Gate addition was really cool, as it is basically the gateway to Machu Picchu that the Incas would have taken when walking to reach it. It probably took us 40 minutes to walk up to the Sun Gate (gradually uphill) and about 30 minutes back. The views of Machu Picchu as you walk towards it are truly amazing, and the scenery around makes it feel like you are in another universe. Once you have done this part, you can head into the viewpoint on the main 1b circuit. There are loads of great angles for you to take your postcard pictures, as below, and it is truly beautiful. There is a large grass terrace where you can sit as long as you want and admire the view.

We then did Route 2a - Classic circuit. This is the most popular route and gives you access to the most sought-after areas under one ticket. You get to see the panoramic view of Machu Picchu, allowing you to get that "postcard shot", whilst also accessing the citadel ruins itself and exploring. If you have only got time to do one route, I would probably make it this one. However, we did find it insanely busy (although we did not enter this route until around 2pm which is probably one of the worst times to go!).

We then did Route 3c - Machu Picchu royalty with Gran Caverna. Whilst this route was very quiet relative to the other parts of the site, there was good reason for this - there is no direct view of the citadel, and the path is very dangerous. We got to a section where the steps were so steep next to a sheer drop with no railing, and my legs turned to jelly.

We also did Route 3d Huchuy Picchu Route. We loved this route. Huchuy Picchu means "small peak", and it doesn't disappoint - you will essentially be climbing the smaller of the peaks you see behind the citadel in the postcard shot, above. It took about 20 minutes up and so it didn't take long. Once at the top, you get a great, alternative view of of Machu Picchu which was also pretty quiet. If we could have chosen, we would have gone for Route 3a Waynapicchu as this looks INCREDIBLE, but it is the more extreme, bigger peak of the two and so requires a lot more physical fitness. The setting is so beautiful, so we really enjoyed spending time hiking around the nature away from the busy crowds, and would really recommend doing one of these two hikes if you have time.

On Route 3 circuits, the access to the lower portion of the citadel was a slightly different route to route 2; you get to see more of the lower section but of course you cannot enter the upper terraces and upper section of the citadel (which is just a small section). We hired a guide who we found waiting outside the entrance to Machu Picchu and paid £15 each for an hour and a half tour. It was really nice to have a guide to get some extra information and gain a better understanding of the history of this magical site. We actually spent 2 days exploring Machu Picchu and was really glad that we did, so if you have spare time, add a day on.

How long in advance do I need to book tickets for Machu Picchu?

We actually did two days of Machu Picchu and covered 3 different routes. We didn't book our tickets far enough in advance so not all routes were available to us, so I definitely recommend booking 3-6 months in advance if you can. One thing to note is that the workers within Machu Picchu will not let you turn around part-way through any route, so once you've kept moving you can't go back. Likewise if you make a wrong turn, so take your time and make sure you're certain where you are going before you take a turn. If you are booking last minute, you can consider using the lottery system in Aguas Caliente, detailed above.

Day 9 - Travel back to Cusco

Sadly it is time to leave Machu Picchu - grab your return train back to Cusco and stay the night. If you have time, refer back to day 5 for other things to do here!

Day 10 - Travel to Puno

Puno is the gateway to Lake Titicaca - the highest navigable lake in the world. This is at an altitude of 3,827m so it is still well within altitude sickness territory, however we found it much more bearable than Cusco as we had acclimatised by this point.

Although we did love it here, we found it quite a long way to go for a day trip, so if you are tight for time and want to cut down this itinerary, I would definitely drop this.

The bus from Cusco is 7 hours and we booked online on busbud, which you can book here. By the time you get there and check in, there is a bit of time for dinner and an explore of Puno. We found Puno safe to walk around including once it had gone dark after dinner.

Although you can get an Uber to the bus station in Cusco, Puno unfortunately does not have Uber. Make sure you have cash for a taxi when you arrive. We are always sceptical about grabbing taxis in South America, but the tourism help desk told us it's totally fine to flag one of the official taxis down in Puno. The taxis wait at the back of the bus station, and took around 10 minutes to get to the centre of Puno. It costs around 15 Peruvian Sol ($4) for the taxi - try to take the exact money as our driver did not have change!

Where to stay in Puno

Puno is pretty small, so staying near the centre / Plaza Mayor is best. We recommend staying in the Casona Plaza Hotel Puno [costs £35/night], which is a good mid-range option.

Where to eat in Puno

• Bianca Pizza: Absolutely delicious pizza, perfect for the post-bus ride hunger! The service was also excellent, and the seating upstairs is pretty quirky and cool.

• La Casa del Corregidor Café Bar: We ate here twice. It had a good range of food which we enjoyed. You can get things like burgers, Peruvian rice dishes and grilled meat here.

Day 11 - Day trip on Lake Titicaca

The next day, we did a day tour on Lake Titicaca to Uros and Taquile islands. We booked this one and really enjoyed it [affiliated link].

Uros Floating Island: Home to indigenous people, this is a truly fascinating experience. The larger community is sub-divided into smaller communities, each of which host a group of tourists once per month for income. The good thing is you'll be visiting a small community with just your tour group, so you get a great insight into how the indigenous people have lived and continue to live to this day. Likely the last generation to live here since younger generations are moving to mainland Peru for work, the local people must move onto a completely new island every 40 years. These islands are built with totora reeds grown in the lake. Walking on the islands feel like you are walking on marshmallows! You will learn how the locals live day-to-day, how they build the island from reeds, and browse through their handmade textiles (we had zero pressure to buy which was nice).

Taquile Island: Also home to a different indigenous group, this is a totally different experience. Home to around 2,000 people, the locals predominantly weave textiles to earn an income. Explore the island, learn how the locals live, experience and even join in with locals dancing. We were served a delicious lunch which was made by locals!

Day 12 - Catch the bus to Arequipa

Arequipa was my favourite city in Peru, which I was surprised to be saying as I absolutely loved Cusco! It is famous for being the "White City" or "Ciudad Blanca".

Leaving from the same bus station that you arrived into, this bus is around 7 hours which you can book here. In our experience, the bus did not stop for a toilet/food break. The toilet on the bus is pretty gross and difficult to use when moving! Note: If you’re short on days and want to cram as much in as possible, you can also do night buses from Puno to Arequipa. We opted not to, but we found the Peruvian buses to be nice and comfortable.

When you arrive, you can grab an Uber from the station to your hotel and it is time to check in and grab some food.

Where to stay in Arequipa

Arequipa felt safe to walk around after dark to us as we stayed in the historic centre. I would suggest that anywhere within a 10 minute walk of the historic centre is a good place to stay. I would not recommend the place that we stayed, however we noticed a few lovely hotels / hostels as below:

• Hotel Benavides [c. £30/room/night]

• La Plaza Arequipa Hotel Boutique [c. £50/room/night]

• Katari Hotel at Plaza de Armas - a more luxurious option [c. £75/room/night]

  
  

Where to eat in Arequipa:

There is a huge range of cuisines available in Arequipa, including both Peruvian and international good. We loved the following:

• Kao Thai and Peruvuan Cuisine: We LOVED this - it was Thai food with a Peruvian twist. Truly unique, and absolutely delicious (if not a little more on the expensive side).

• Oso Cafe: Amazing brunch, so good we ate here twice! think avocado, eggs, delicious muesli and fantastic coffee.

• Las Gringas: Yummy pizza!

• Tanta: An amazing mix of rice dishes here. There are loads of different options on the menu!

Day 13 - Explore Arequipa

AM - You know the drill! Why not grab a free walking tour to get to know the history of Arequipa, and learn about all of the key sites in the city? It also helps you to see what parts of the town you love, and want to spend more time! We did this one, and absolutely loved it! Watch out for the local ice cream with a twist...

PM - Museo Santuarios Andos: This is an absolute must do in Arequipa. For a ticket price of 25 Peruvian Sol (around £5/$6), you get a (compulsory) guide of the museum where you will learn the history of an Incan girl (Junita) who was sacrificed to the gods over 500 years ago; her body was discovered frozen in ice in 1995, and remains well preserved until today. The museum houses so many interesting artefacts that were found with her body, as well as the mummified body itself (the real one!); it is a great chance to learn about Incan traditions and rituals.

Catch sunset over the cathedral at Waya Lookout - Rooftop bar. This is on the Plaza de Armas which is the central hub of Arequipa. On the walking tour, we tried a local chicha here which we absolutely loved, so of course had to go back!

Day 14 - Explore Arequipa

AM - Visit the Cathedral Museum in the Plaza de Armas. A tour is compulsory and they will take you to the top of the cathedral, with unreal views over the Plaza de Armas and the rest of Arequipa. It is well worth the short tour just to get to the viewpoint! Watch out for the bin lorries that play the song "Under The Sea" from The Little Mermaid - weird, I know.

Afterwards, head over to the Mundo Alpaca to look at the local alpacas and see how their wool is turned into luxury clothing. Entry is free! Here, you will see not only some cute alpacas and have the chance to feed them, but also view the museum which has an interactive and informative display showing the full process of making alpaca products, from looking after the alpacas to the final product on the shelf. The work they do here is focused on protecting the local communities, as well as looking after the animals, and you will be able to watch locals weaving alpaca products.

PM - We enjoyed taking a walk over to The Mirador de Yanahuara. The views over Arequipa were absolutely stunning, and we enjoyed exploring the cute little roads and parks along the rivers on the way there. Grab a pisco sour in one of the rooftop bars here.

Afterwards, head over to TL Bakery for a late afternoon snack. These desserts were honestly to die for.

Day 15 - Colca Canyon Trip

Today is the day from a day trip from Arequipa to Colca Canyon! Another early rise of 3am but this departure time is necessary to see the condors (birds) flying over the canyon! This is the trip that we booked and would recommend - they were super kind and let us rearrange when I got sick [affiliated link].

The tour itself includes the following highlights:

Condor Watching: Visiting the Cruz del Condor viewpoint, you can see Andean condors. This is the highlight of the day, with condors most active in the early morning.

Cultural Experience: Visit traditional villages (Maca and Yanque), where you can see colonial-era churches and locals in traditional dress. These villages are part of the Colca Valley, known for its pre-Inca terracing, still used for agriculture today.

Natural Beauty: Besides the canyon, the trip includes visits to hot springs like those in Chivay or La Calera, offering a relaxing end to the day. The canyon itself is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon at some points, so there are some amazing views from various lookouts.

Wildlife and Nature: Along the way, you pass through the Salinas y Aguada Blanca National Reserve, home to vicuñas, alpacas, and other highland species. This segment of the trip can also include stops at other natural attractions like the Pampa Cañahuas for more wildlife viewing.

Day 16 - Fly from Arequipa to Lima

Time to catch a flight back to Lima ahead of departing Peru. Buuuuut - we aren't quite finished yet, we still have one of our favourite day trips of Peru left to go!

The best area to stay in Lima is Miraflores. We stayed in a really lovely hotel called Hotel Inclan, which was located in a very cosmopolitan area which lots of lovely cafes and restaurants. The rooms were HUGE, with city views and a huge shower.

We found again here that the cuisine was pretty international (not much local food) although Lima is meant to be the best place to try the famous "Ceviche" dish. We grabbed a delicious Japanese dinner at Tanuki and headed over to Homemade the next day for a fantastic brunch!

Day 17 - Day trip to Paracas and Huacachina Oasis from Lima

Today, you should head on a trip to Paracas and Huacachina from Lima. We recommend booking this trip [affiliated link]. It was AMAZING.

Get picked up at 6am and travel 4 hours towards Paracas. Once you arrive, you will board a boat and go on a trip to view humboldt penguins! The boat ride itself is 1 hour and the nature is phenomenal; we saw many penguins, sea lions and a variety of Peruvian birds! You then get an hour and a half to explore Paracas and grab some lunch. We went to Restaurante Puerto Ballesta Paracas restaurant and absolutely loved.

Jump back on the coach and it is another hour to Huacachina. When you arrive, prepare to be blown away. A small town and an oasis in the middle of a desert is somewhat surreal. We added on the additional buggy ride which was like being on a rollercoaster, but good fun if you're into adrenaline rush experiences. Don't forget to take your hat off or you may lose it, like someone in our group did! You will also get to try sandboarding (we only got to do this laying down) but it was sooooo much fun. Although, one of us may have gone on a slope way too big and come off (refer to our TikTok if you want a giggle, so just be careful and use your own judgement as to what feels safe! We got an hour to look round and explore which was just enough time. We could also pre-order some food for collection which I would recommend you won't get back to Lima until at least 10pm!

Day 18 - Leave Peru

Departure day has come. Sad reacts only. Don't forget to buy up as much alpaca clothing as you can fit in your suitcase, since it is so much cheaper here than the rest of the world!

Foods to try in Peru:

• Ceviche: This is one of Peru's most infamous dishes! It is trout marinated in citrus and seasonings. A must for any seafood lovers!

• Lomo Saltado: Delicious slow-cooked beef in a sauce and vegetables, services with rice and potatoes. This was absolutely delicious, and great for the meat lovers. It's a bit like stir fried sirloin with onions and tomatoes.

• Aji de Gallina: This creamy chicken dish is very unique. It looks like curry but doesn't taste like it - it's not that spicy, and the way it's cooked makes the meat super soft.

• Alpaca: If you're adventurous, the locals (and many tourists) do eat alpaca meat. We did not, but something to consider if you really want to.

• Guinea Pig: As above, we couldn't bring ourselves to eat a guinea pig, but it is one of Peru's most popular dishes. So try this if you must!

  
  

Safety in Peru:

We felt safe everywhere we went in Peru. Relative to other South American countries, it is very safe. The police are reasonably helpful, and crime is relatively low. Of course don't go wondering off from the main towns, and don't go walking down dark, quiet roads at night. But on the whole, we had no problems at all and found locals to be very helpful and friendly. Food hygiene wasn't much of an issue for us, although we did hear some stories of travellers who were hit by food poisoning - stick to busy establishments if you can!

Other:

Currency: As of January 2025, £1 is equivalent to 4.6 Peruvian Sol.

Language: Whilst most of the Peruvian people speak Quechua or even another indigeneous language, virtually everyone in Peru also speaks Spanish. Aside from tour guides, not that many people speak English in Peru - so get your Google Translate app out!

Transport: Peru's rail network to Aguas Caliente is excellent. The long-journey buses (mentioned above) are also excellent too. Most cities have Uber, but if not, local taxi companies are safe (although they may be cash only).